/* Creaky Floorboards — «Il registro degli ospiti»: carta rigata, inchiostro blu, timbro rosso scuro, targhette d'ottone */
@font-face{font-family:"Young Serif";src:url(/assets/fonts/young-serif-latin-400-normal.6ba68b9927.woff2) format("woff2");font-weight:400;font-style:normal;font-display:swap}
@font-face{font-family:"Source Serif 4";src:url(/assets/fonts/source-serif-4-latin-400-normal.02194deb92.woff2) format("woff2");font-weight:400;font-style:normal;font-display:swap}
@font-face{font-family:"Source Serif 4";src:url(/assets/fonts/source-serif-4-latin-400-italic.882b7c150c.woff2) format("woff2");font-weight:400;font-style:italic;font-display:swap}
@font-face{font-family:"Source Serif 4";src:url(/assets/fonts/source-serif-4-latin-600-normal.f2b7e1cf1d.woff2) format("woff2");font-weight:600;font-style:normal;font-display:swap}
@font-face{font-family:"Courier Prime";src:url(/assets/fonts/courier-prime-latin-400-normal.f09844e1f4.woff2) format("woff2");font-weight:400;font-style:normal;font-display:swap}
@font-face{font-family:"Courier Prime";src:url(/assets/fonts/courier-prime-latin-700-normal.5c7ae1cc9a.woff2) format("woff2");font-weight:700;font-style:normal;font-display:swap}

:root{
  --paper:#E9ECEF; --rule:#C9D1DA; --card:#F5F7F9; --ink:#1F2A44; --muted:#4E5A6E;
  --ox:#7A2430; --brass:#A8873C; --brass-ink:#1A1406; --night:#18213A;
  --f-display:"Young Serif",Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;
  --f-body:"Source Serif 4",Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;
  --f-type:"Courier Prime","Courier New",Courier,monospace;
  --w:1160px; --g:max(16px,env(safe-area-inset-left,0px)); --gr:max(16px,env(safe-area-inset-right,0px));
}
*,*::before,*::after{box-sizing:border-box}
html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:400 18px/1.62 var(--f-body);font-variant-ligatures:common-ligatures}
img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}
a{color:var(--ink);text-decoration-thickness:1px;text-underline-offset:3px}
a:hover{color:var(--ox)}
a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--ox);outline-offset:3px}
.skip{position:absolute;left:-999px;top:0;background:var(--ink);color:var(--card);padding:8px 12px;z-index:9}
.skip:focus{left:12px}
.wrap{max-width:var(--w);margin:0 auto;padding-left:var(--g);padding-right:var(--gr)}
.narrow{max-width:760px}
.type{font-family:var(--f-type)}
.label{font:700 12px/1.3 var(--f-type);letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase}

/* testata */
.top{background:var(--paper);border-bottom:3px double var(--ink)}
.top__row{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:12px 24px;padding-block:18px}
.brand{text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);display:block}
.brand__name{font:400 27px/1.1 var(--f-display);letter-spacing:-.01em;display:block}
.brand__sub{font:400 11px/1.4 var(--f-type);letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ox);display:block;margin-top:2px}
.nav{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px 20px}
.nav a{font:700 13px var(--f-type);letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase;text-decoration:none}
.nav a:hover{text-decoration:underline}

/* carta rigata solo nelle fasce «registro» */
.ruled{background-image:repeating-linear-gradient(to bottom,transparent 0 31px,var(--rule) 31px 32px)}

/* home */
.hero{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.35fr) minmax(0,1fr);gap:32px;padding-block:40px 34px}
.hero__title{font:400 clamp(32px,4.6vw,52px)/1.06 var(--f-display);margin:0 0 16px;text-wrap:balance;letter-spacing:-.01em}
.hero__title em{font-style:normal;color:var(--ox)}
.hero__text{margin:0;max-width:54ch;font-size:19px}
.hero__by{margin:18px 0 0;font:400 14px var(--f-type);color:var(--muted)}
.ledger{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--rule);padding:18px 20px;align-self:start}
.ledger h2{margin:0 0 10px;color:var(--ox)}
.ledger ol{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}
.ledger li{display:grid;grid-template-columns:4.6em minmax(0,1fr);gap:10px;padding:8px 0;border-bottom:1px dashed var(--rule);font:400 15px/1.45 var(--f-type)}
.ledger li:last-child{border-bottom:0}
.ledger time{font-weight:700;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.ledger a{text-decoration:none}
.ledger a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.ledger .empty{font:400 15px var(--f-type);color:var(--muted);margin:0}

.floors{padding-block:6px 30px}
.floors h2{margin:0 0 12px}
.chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px}
.chip{font:400 14px var(--f-type);text-decoration:none;border:1px solid var(--ink);padding:5px 12px;background:var(--card)}
.chip:hover{background:var(--ink);color:var(--card)}

.block{padding-block:30px}
.block__head{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:8px 16px;margin-bottom:22px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink);padding-bottom:8px}
.h2{font:400 clamp(24px,2.6vw,30px)/1.15 var(--f-display);margin:0;text-wrap:balance}
.h3{font:400 21px/1.2 var(--f-display);margin:0 0 10px;text-wrap:balance}
.more{font:700 13px var(--f-type);letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase}
.empty{color:var(--muted)}

.grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(270px,1fr));gap:30px 26px}
.card{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--rule);position:relative;display:flex;flex-direction:column}
.card__img{display:block;aspect-ratio:3/2;overflow:hidden;background:var(--rule)}
.card__img img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.card__body{padding:18px 18px 20px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:6px}
.key{position:absolute;top:-11px;right:14px;z-index:1;background:var(--brass);color:var(--brass-ink);font:700 12px var(--f-type);letter-spacing:.04em;padding:4px 10px 4px 17px;border-radius:2px 12px 12px 2px}
.key::before{content:"";position:absolute;left:6px;top:50%;width:6px;height:6px;margin-top:-3px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--paper)}
.card .label{color:var(--ox)}
.card__title{font:400 22px/1.2 var(--f-display);margin:0;text-wrap:balance}
.card__title a{text-decoration:none}
.card__title a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.card__text{margin:0;font-size:16px;color:var(--muted)}

/* liste */
.crumbs{font:400 14px var(--f-type);padding-top:22px;color:var(--muted)}
.crumbs a{color:var(--muted)}
.page-title{font:400 clamp(30px,4vw,44px)/1.1 var(--f-display);margin:12px 0 24px;text-wrap:balance}
.sub{color:var(--muted);max-width:60ch}

/* articolo */
.art-hero{margin:18px 0 0}
.art-hero img{width:100%;max-height:560px;object-fit:cover;border:1px solid var(--rule)}
.art-hero figcaption{font:400 13px var(--f-type);color:var(--muted);margin-top:6px}
.art{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 320px;gap:44px;padding-block:28px 20px;align-items:start}
.art__main{min-width:0}
.art__main>.label{color:var(--ox)}
.art__title{font:400 clamp(32px,4.4vw,50px)/1.08 var(--f-display);margin:8px 0 14px;text-wrap:balance;letter-spacing:-.01em}
.art__lead{font-size:21px;line-height:1.5;margin:0 0 14px;max-width:62ch}
.art__meta{font:400 14px var(--f-type);color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 30px;padding-bottom:16px;border-bottom:3px double var(--ink)}
.prose{max-width:66ch}
.prose p{margin:0 0 1.1em}
.prose h2{font:400 clamp(25px,2.8vw,31px)/1.18 var(--f-display);margin:1.9em 0 .55em;text-wrap:balance}
.prose h3{font:600 20px/1.3 var(--f-body);margin:1.6em 0 .4em}
.prose a{color:var(--ink);text-decoration-color:var(--ox)}
.prose strong{font-weight:600}
.prose ul,.prose ol{padding-left:1.3em;margin:0 0 1.1em}
.prose li{margin-bottom:.35em}
.prose blockquote{margin:1.4em 0;padding:4px 0 4px 18px;border-left:3px solid var(--brass);font-style:italic}
.prose table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;margin:0 0 24px;font-size:16px;background:var(--card)}
.prose th,.prose td{text-align:left;padding:9px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);vertical-align:top}
.prose th{font:700 13px var(--f-type);letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase;border-bottom:2px solid var(--ink)}
@media (max-width:640px){.prose table{display:block;overflow-x:auto;-webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch;font-size:15px}.prose th,.prose td{padding:8px 10px}}
.fig{margin:1.6em 0}
.fig img{width:100%;border:1px solid var(--rule)}
.fig figcaption{font:400 13px var(--f-type);color:var(--muted);margin-top:6px}

/* box «Fact or folklore?» */
.fof{margin:34px 0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));border:2px solid var(--ink);background:var(--card)}
.fof__title{grid-column:1/-1;margin:0;padding:10px 18px;border-bottom:2px solid var(--ink);font:400 20px var(--f-display)}
.fof>div{padding:14px 18px;min-width:0}
.fof>div+div{border-left:2px solid var(--ink)}
.fof .label{display:block;margin-bottom:6px}
.fof .folk .label{color:var(--ox)}
.fof p{margin:0;font-size:16.5px}
.stamp{display:inline-block;transform:rotate(-4deg);border:2px solid var(--ox);color:var(--ox);font:700 12px var(--f-type);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;padding:2px 8px;margin-top:10px}

/* box «Getting there off-season» */
.getting{margin:34px 0;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--rule);border-top:4px solid var(--ink);padding:16px 20px}
.getting h2{margin:0 0 10px}
.getting dl{margin:0;display:grid;gap:8px}
.getting div{display:grid;grid-template-columns:9em minmax(0,1fr);gap:12px;border-bottom:1px dashed var(--rule);padding-bottom:8px}
.getting div:last-child{border-bottom:0;padding-bottom:0}
.getting dt{font:700 13px var(--f-type);letter-spacing:.04em;text-transform:uppercase}
.getting dd{margin:0;font-size:16px}

/* scheda pratica laterale: la scheda della reception */
.desk{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--rule);padding:0 0 16px;position:sticky;top:16px}
.desk__head{background:var(--night);color:var(--card);padding:12px 18px}
.desk__title{margin:0;font:400 22px var(--f-display)}
.desk__ver{margin:2px 0 0;font:400 13px var(--f-type);opacity:.85}
.desk dl{margin:0;padding:6px 18px 0}
.desk dl div{padding:10px 0;border-bottom:1px dashed var(--rule)}
.desk dt{font:700 12px var(--f-type);letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ox)}
.desk dd{margin:2px 0 0;font-size:15.5px;line-height:1.45}
.desk__src{margin:12px 18px 0;font:400 13px/1.5 var(--f-type);color:var(--muted)}
.desk__src a{color:var(--muted)}

.faq{margin:40px 0 10px;border-top:3px double var(--ink);padding-top:18px}
.faq details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);padding:12px 0}
.faq summary{cursor:pointer;font:600 18px var(--f-body);list-style-position:outside}
.faq details p{margin:8px 0 0;font-size:17px}
.related{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(250px,1fr));gap:18px}
.related li{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--rule);padding:14px 16px}
.related .label{color:var(--ox)}
.related a{font:400 19px/1.25 var(--f-display);text-decoration:none;display:block;margin-top:4px}

/* piede */
.foot{background:var(--night);color:#DDE3EC;margin-top:56px}
.foot__row{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:12px 24px;padding-block:26px 10px}
.foot__brand{font:400 22px var(--f-display)}
.foot nav{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px 18px}
.foot a{color:#DDE3EC;font:400 14px var(--f-type);text-decoration:none}
.foot a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.foot__small{font:400 13px var(--f-type);color:#AEB8C7;padding-block:0 26px}

/* modulo contatti */
.contact{margin:28px 0 8px}
.contact__row{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:6px;margin:0 0 18px}
.contact label{font:700 13px var(--f-type);letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase}
.contact input[type=text],.contact input[type=email],.contact textarea{font:inherit;font-size:17px;padding:11px 13px;border:1px solid var(--ink);border-radius:0;background:var(--card);color:var(--ink);width:100%}
.contact textarea{resize:vertical;min-height:180px}
.contact input:focus,.contact textarea:focus{outline:2px solid var(--ox);outline-offset:1px}
.contact__trap{position:absolute!important;left:-10000px!important;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden}
.contact__note{font-size:15px;color:var(--muted)}
.contact__send{font:700 14px var(--f-type);letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;padding:12px 22px;border:2px solid var(--ink);background:var(--ink);color:var(--card);cursor:pointer}
.contact__send:hover{background:var(--ox);border-color:var(--ox)}

@media (max-width:900px){
  .art{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:28px}
  .desk{position:static}
}
@media (max-width:720px){
  body{font-size:17px}
  .hero{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:24px;padding-block:28px}
  .fof{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .fof>div+div{border-left:0;border-top:2px solid var(--ink)}
  .getting div{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:2px}
  .art__lead{font-size:19px}
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:no-preference){.key{transition:transform .2s}.card:hover .key{transform:rotate(-6deg)}}
.page-title--top{margin-top:34px}